Whiskey Jack's Trading Post

Whiskey Jack’s News Round-Up for May 15, 2011

2011-05-15T11:00:00.000-07:00

Each day I scour the web in search of relevant news articles relating to antiques, collectibles and online selling, and each week I hope to present them to you here on the Whiskey Jack’s Trading Post blog. If a particular article looks interesting, just click on the headline to view the entire article. I hope you enjoy these articles and find them informative as well! Thanks for stopping by!

(To read the full articles, just click on the individual headlines)

Collectibles can be affordable

It certainly depends on our wallets, but for most of us, it’s fun to look for old items that are inexpensive and just might increase in value. If we stick to the definition of “antique” as an item that’s 100 years old or older, the task of finding that bargain with profit potential gets much harder. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

2 SoCal men charged in scheme to sell counterfeit Disney pins, pass them off as collectibles

SANTA ANA, Calif. — Two Southern California men have been charged with illegally importing about $2 million worth of counterfeit Disney pins from China and selling them over the Internet. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

In coin dealings, ex-cons make a killing

In three decades of investing in gold and silver, Dean Dellinger amassed nearly 27 pounds of coins. His collection might have been worth more than $645,000 at current prices -- if he still had it. Instead, the 88-year-old Florida resident says his devotion to hard currencies made him an easy mark for a pitchman who cold-called and persuaded him to trade for a class of historic coins called "numismatics." (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Passion for antique dolls

FOR Coleen Anderson, reproducing antique dolls is more than a hobby – it’s a passion. “I’ve got hundreds of beautiful dolls in my collection,” the Tintenbar woman said. “I started making dolls nearly 30 years ago and I do a lot of antique reproductions. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

eBay Sellers Lose Appeal in Antitrust Lawsuit

eBay sellers whose class action antitrust lawsuit against eBay was dismissed last year have lost their appeal. Court documents on Leagle.com show the Ninth Circuit Court of Appeals were satisfied that the district court "did not err in ruling on eBay's motion for summary judgment without delay for further discovery." (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Collectibles: How Not to Lose Your Shirt

During times of economic dislocation – when people lose faith in conventional instruments like stocks and bonds – investment dollars are often allocated to various unconventional vehicles, including rare collectibles. A mysterious and fervent devotion attaches itself to items like watches, coins, stamps, art, jewels, antiques, wine, books, paintings, sports memorabilia, automobiles, and other exotica. This can happen in good times, too. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Antique inkwells

The Tehachapi Museum has inaugurated its new “Community Case” with a special collection of antique inkwells and other ink and writing related objects. The program is designed to feature vintage collectibles from Tehachapi area residents. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Spending: Is your antique a gem or junk?

Everyone dreams of finding a priceless antique in their attic. But how do you determine whether your treasure is a valuable heirloom or something better suited for donation to Goodwill? Look for unusual markings or details on the object, then search for more information online. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

A 30-Year Evolution of the Coin Market, and a Look Forward

In March of this year I will turn 42 years old and it occurs to me that 2011 marks my 21st year as a full-time coin dealer. So, exactly half of my life has been devoted to professional numismatics, though I have been attending and setting up at shows since I was 5 years old. It’s truly amazing how much the coin industry has changed over this time. Like many other markets, change was slow for the many decades prior to the 1980’s, and for many collectibles not always positive. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Top Ten Tips for the week of May 15, 2011

2011-05-14T15:13:00.000-07:00

Many of you have expressed that you enjoy the tips and hints that I post on Face Book and Twitter, but that you would enjoy them more if I put them on the blog. Therefore, beginning this week, I will be putting them in weekly blog articles as the "Top Ten Tips of the Week." I realize that you would prefer all of the tips at one time, however, as there are about 20 pages of them, I have opted to put them into weekly articles. They will be here in the archives, should you ever need to refer to them. Happy reading and I hope you find these tips and hints of some value.

1. Many antique and vintage items can be damaged by the oil on your finger tips. Always keep a pair of clean cotton gloves handy in case you will be handling such items.

2. Do not attempt to clean coins, as cleaning makes them less desirable to collectors. Always leave them in “found” condition.

3. When washing ceramics, use only mild soap and lukewarm water. If they are damaged, repaired or have cold-painted decorations, clean only with gentle wiping with a damp cloth.

4. A simple brass polish may be made by mixing equal parts of salt, flour and vinegar. Rub the mixture on with a soft cloth, rinse completely and shine with a clean, dry, soft cloth.

5. Glazed figurines and ceramic lamps can be cleaned by spraying them with glass cleaner, and wiping dry with lint-less cloth towels.

6. When storing vintage plastic items, keep them away from heat, and do not allow them to touch one another.

7. Silver, silver plate and ceramics should never be wrapped in bubble wrap when being stored. Heat and humidity can damage items stored this way.

8. An easy way to clean a lot of small glass and china pieces, is to place them on a towel in your sink, and spray them all thoroughly with glass cleaner. Then place them on another towel to air dry.

9. If you have lamps or other items on a wooden tabletop, be sure to rearrange them from time to time. This will prevent light and dark spots from appearing on the wood. This happens when the exposed areas lighten with time, while the covered areas remain dark.

10. Use wig bleach (found at many beauty supply stores) to clean ironstone and porous pottery.

Antique Shopping 101

2011-05-08T15:55:00.001-07:00

It has been said that the best time to buy an antique is when you see it. And there is a certain amount of truth to this. That being said, however, there are a few things you should take into account before you even leave the house. And such is the purpose of this article.

The first thing to understand is, to know what you are looking for, and what you like. Then, do your homework. The more you know about the type of antique you’re looking for, the less likely you are to regret your purchase. You wouldn’t buy a car without knowing at least a little something about the kind of car you want, and the same holds true for antiques. So do some research. You might check out your local library to see if they have any books about the type of antique you are interested in, in their holdings. Don’t forget to also ask about an interlibrary loan. You might even want to check out your local bookseller to see if they have am identification or price guide. Remember, however, that the prices in price guides do not necessarily reflect the value of the items contained within its covers. Price guides are best used only for identification. Check online sources as well. To a search online for your antique, and learn about the history of the piece. Learn what type of maker mark to look for, and memorize the mark. Learn any identifying characteristics about your antique. In other words, learn as much as you can about it. In doing so, you will be better prepared to ask an antique dealer educated questions, and less likely to be taken for an uninformed novice.

Tip Number Two, shop with a reputable dealer. Check with the better business bureau to find out if any of the dealers in your area have had complaints. Find out how long the dealers have been in business for any length of time, and ask around. If a dealer has a good reputation, word will get around. If a dealer has a bad reputation, word will get around even more. When you visit a dealer, ask if the dealer is willing to provide a detailed receipt, noting the age of the piece, whether or not it is a reproduction, and maybe even the appraised value of the piece. If a dealer is willing to put this information in writing, then he or she is willing to put his or her reputation on the line. Disreputable dealers will not be willing to do this.

Tip Number Three, don’t be shy about asking for a discount. Most dealers almost expect their customers to ask for a discount, and some even price their items accordingly. Therefore, understand that when you purchase an antique, you may actually be paying more than the expected price if you don’t ask for a discount. But, a word of warning here, I said “ask,” don’t demand. And don’t mention a specific percentage. If you go in and demand or even ask for say a 25% or 50% discount, there is a good chance that you will insult the dealer, and any hope for discount will go right out the window. Instead, you might ask, “Is this your best price?” or “How firm are you on this price?” The just wait and see what the dealer has to say. He or she may then offer you a discount, or they may not. I have had both happen to me when I have asked. Once a price has been agreed upon, either a discounted price or the full price, get ready to ask again. Once you take your antique up to the counter to pay for it, pull out your credit card, pause, and then ask if the dealer offers a discount for paying cash. Some dealers will offer a discounted price to cash paying customers because they realize that they will have to pay a fee when customers pay with a credit card. Again, this may work, and it may not, but you’ll never know until you try. And don’t worry about insulting the dealer by asking for a discount. Most dealers expect it, and are ready to deal.

Tip Number Four, if you don’t like it, don’t buy it. Pretty simple advice, right? But you would be surprised how many people will buy an antique simply because it is an antique, and with the full expectation that it will appreciate in value and earn them a return on their investment. But what happens if they don’t really like the piece? And what happens if the value of the piece goes down rather than up? If you really like the piece, then it doesn’t really matter if it’s value up or down, because you will be enjoying the piece, and any appreciation in value is an added benefit to your enjoyment.

Our Last Tip, when you see that special piece, don’t wait! When you come across that special piece you’re going to know it. It will almost call to you from across the room. And even if you’re not 100% sure that you want it, go over and pick it up and hold on to it. Do not put it back down until you are 100% sure that you don’t want it. I cannot emphasize this enough! If you like it, even a little bit, go over and pick it up and hold onto it until you are absolutely certain you do not want it. I can’t tell you how many times I have watched someone pick a piece up and look longingly at it, and then put it back on the shelf while they walk around and think about it. Then when they finally decide they want it, they go back to claim their prize only to find that someone else has already picked it up. Remember, antiques are almost always one-of-a-kind pieces, and there is no guarantee that you will ever find another one. And even if you do, you may end up paying more. So, don’t put that item down until you are absolutely certain you just don’t want it.

So there you have it. Five quick tips to help turn you into a confident, no nonsense antique shopper. So head out there with your head up and determination in your stride! Happy shopping!

Whiskey Jack’s News Round-Up for May 8, 2011

2011-05-08T15:48:00.000-07:00

Case Study: Using Social Marketing Techniques in Ecommerce

I just returned from attending a writers workshop at which budding authors were exhorted to develop a "platform." What, you ask, is a platform, and what does it have to do with selling online?.... (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Collectors Corner: Jigsaw Puzzles

When I was very young and had to stay home from school due to illness, I remember being not too unhappy because Mom would often present me with a new jigsaw puzzle….. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Fun ways to keep kids engaged and entertained

PHOENIX - Do you ever find yourself getting overwhelmed when shopping for toys? Which will break, which will keep their attention, and which toys are harmful for your kids?.... (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Antique Furniture Tips

While many of us treasure our family heirlooms, vintage objects, and antiques, there are some simple ways to enjoy your treasures while working to make them last….. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

What's it Worth? Miniature cannons

Q: We enjoy your column every Saturday. We have found one of those tucked away family treasures and would like to find out more about it. It appears to be a small cannon, and we know that it is at least 100 years old,… (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Does eBay's Best Match Search Algorithm Favor Certain Sellers?

You don't have to be a disgruntled eBay seller to know there are flaws in the search function - eBay's own executives acknowledge it and say they are working hard to improve the buyer experience…. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Kovels Antiques: Old carousel figures coveted by collectors

Carousel figures, made mostly in the early 1900s, sell for high prices today. Carousels probably were first made in the 1700s to train spear-throwers,…. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Antique Loomisms: Fenton carnival glass bowl worth $100

How amusing to hear how some antiques that we cherish were initially baptized with unkind designations. In the late 1700s, the Shakers, a branch of the Quakers, literally shook…. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Antiques — Let’s Play Jeopardy: ‘Antiques for $200, Alex’

I admit it. During Jeopardy, I become one of those obnoxious smarty-pants who shouts the answers (I mean the questions) at the television set. I’d risk less humiliation for blurting out incorrect responses if there was an “Antiques” category… (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Antiques & Collectibles: Sifters are both practical, nostalgic

If you have never before paid attention to old kitchen gadgets, check out grandma’s basement or your mother’s kitchen cupboards. In the last half of the 1850s, mass-produced kitchen gadgets were patented at… (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Collecting: Madness, method & money

It is a fairly ordinary thing—an old, yellowish envelope with three rectangular stamps stuck on top with postal cancellation of 26.1.1950. There are plenty of cancellations of that date. Holding it out to the sunlight filtering through his office window that overlooks the Bombay High Court, well-known solicitor Rajan Jayakar remarks, “The stamps are fairly common, issued to commemorate the Indian Republic Day. But do you know why this envelope is invaluable?”….. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Tonnes of antique silver scrapped after bullion price hike

HUGE quantities of antique silver and gold were scrapped last week as precious metal prices hit record highs. Silver dealers in particular clamoured to take advantage of a two-fold hike in the bullion market, the like of which has not been seen for 30 years…. (To read the full article, just click on the headline)

Whiskey Jack’s News Round-Up for April 24, 2011

2011-04-25T10:19:00.000-07:00

Internet Sales Tax to be Introduced in US Senate

Online companies already pay state taxes in the states in which they reside, but many politicians -- including those in New York, Illinois and Connecticut -- recently pushed to collect taxes from customers on purchases made outside the state if the sites have vendors that physically reside within their states.

Durbin's proposal intends to push internet vendors to collect state taxes on items purchased out of state….. (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Big Values for Antiques featuring Bugs

Insects spark great drama in the world of art and antiques. Since ancient times, bugs have had their rightful place in art and decorative objects. For instance, in ancient Egypt, bugs were revered in Egyptian culture and religion. The Egyptians believed that a divine….. (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Turn Your Collectible DVDs into Cash

If you've been buying DVDs for a while, there's a good chance that a few of those old, dusty boxes on your shelf might be worth a little something. We've heard of specialty out-of-print titles selling for as much as $500 on eBay….. (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Collectors Corner: Mining the eBay Exchange

eBay is the largest auction marketplace in the world - right? Actually, one could make a greater argument that the stock market is. However, there is a burgeoning "commodities" market on eBay. Gold and silver are bought not only for their numismatic value but also their intrinsic bullion value. Where a commodities exchange and eBay differ is that, on eBay, you always take physical delivery of the commodity.

But do not be under the false impression that the market for gold and silver is large,...it is in fact very small compared to the stock market. But there isn't a lack of buyers and sellers on eBay….. (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Antique shops shelved in downturn

Antique dealers have been forced to sell items from their personal collection to stay afloat, while Tirau once the nation's antique capital has just one antique shop left.

Business owners say the combination of online auction sites, selective buyers and selling a discretionary product during the recession had impacted sales…… (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Instill a love of antiques in your children

When our kids were little, we were always dragging them with us to antique shows, stores and flea markets…… (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Antiques: Ayer's collectibles full of deceptive advertising

Deceptive advertising has been a problem for centuries. The "cures" of Victorian times were promoted with posters, trade cards, almanacs, recipe books, calendars and other testimonials.

One of the prominent makers of cures, remedies and hair and skin products was James C. Ayer & Co…. (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Promoting your business with inexpensive collectibles

Although the economy is making some recovery, we would like to find some cost-saving ways to promote our business. Can I benefit from giving away inexpensive promotional items to customers, and where can I find them….. (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Economic problems cut into antique store sales

The smell of old leather, dust, mildew and furniture polish assails the nose as you enter a shop full of odds and ends of all sizes and shapes…. (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Authentic objects relating to a royal wedding hold their value long term

Which royal collectibles should you buy? I always advise people to collect objects that chronicle a historic event or relate to historic figures. It has been proven that in the market for art and antiques these historic and genuine objects will hold their value long term….. (Click on the headline to read the full article)

Analogue artists defying the digital age

Dusty vinyl records, vintage film cameras, rickety typewriters and antiquated recording equipment … these are the creative tools being used by some emerging artists. Pure nostalgia? Or a laudable refusal to escape the speed and sanitised perfection of contemporary digital culture? (Click on the headline to read the full article)

The Continuing Adventures of Whiskey Jack’s Trading Post

2011-04-22T15:41:00.000-07:00

As some of you know, I have reached a point in my life where I simply cannot do all the things I was once able to do. Some of this is the inevitable result of age, and some due to health issues. Both were instrumental in my decision to retire two years ago. Because of this, however, I am now limited to just what I can do in the way of employment. Therefore I decided to really put forth an extra effort into my online sales ventures. Selling on eBay and Bonanza has been okay, but as with us all, an increase in sales would be very welcome! In my attempt to increase sales, I soon learned that I am woefully ignorant of the many ways to increase online sales.

Thanks to some excellent information out there on the web, and in books, and more importantly thanks to some very friendly and helpful folks out there who are extremely generous with their time and knowledge, I am working hard at expanding my customer base, and also engaging in several marketing venues.

As I mentioned above, to achieve this I have started selling on Addoway. You can view my store front by clicking here. I have also set up my Google Profile (here), as well as a profile on HotFrog (here) and LinkedIn (here). If you are also on LinkedIn, let’s connect up. One of the groups I have connected with is Bonanza Sell, which provides a venue to promote my booth, and visit with others who have joined this group. I am also looking into other “business profile” type sites as well, and I’ll keep you updated on my progress with those as well. These sites are free to set up your business profile, and can go a long way toward getting your name out there with regards to internet searches.

I have also signed on for both Twitter (click here), Google Buzz, and Face Book (click here). In fact, I have also started a second Face Book page exclusively for the genealogy research I do. You can view it by clicking here. You can find and either “friend”, “like” or “follow” Ol’ Whiskey Jack by clicking on the links here, and I’d love to see you on these sites! In the not too distant future, I will be exploring Digg, StumbleUpon, and Google Reader as viable marketing venues. And, of course, I will let you know how they work out.

As I mentioned above, I am now selling on Addoway, in addition to Bonanza and eBay. Along side of these online selling sites, I have also signed up with eCrater, BluJay and iOffer. As of yet, I do not have anything in these stores, and I have yet to personalize my profiles on these sites, but I am working on it. One step at a time, ya know. As soon as I get these stores up and running, I’ll let you know. I’ll also let you know if my plan, which is to expand my potential customer base by utilizing additional selling sites, is a success or not.

I did look at some other online selling sites, such as Yardsellr, Etsy and ArtFire, but as yet I have not made a decision on whether or not to use them. Except for Yardsellr that is. I realize some folks really like Yardsellr, and have had success on that site as well, but I have to say that when I visited the site my first impression of Yardsellr was less than positive. One of the first photos I saw of the Yardsellr team (see below), makes me feel as if the Yardsellr team is somewhat lackadaisical in their commitment to professionalism. Which leads me to wonder if their commitment is somewhat less than desirable in other areas, such as customer service, as well. I also do not care for two of their main policies. First, although they do not charge listing fees or final value fees, they do charge your customer $1.00 for the privilege of buying something on their site. I can’t say I like this idea, as it may discourage buyers. Although I do not like the idea of listing and Final Value fees (and who does?), I think they should charge the seller rather than the buyer, and leave it up to the seller to recoup those fees as they think best. More importantly, the number one thing I do not like, is their policy which states that the seller must ship the items before being paid for the item. I think this policy leaves the seller at a distinct disadvantage, and offer too many opportunities for the buyer to somehow defraud the seller.

Also on the horizon I will be utilizing some of the many free advertising sites on the web, to advertise not necessarily specific items, but primarily my online stores.

Hopefully, all of this will translate into the increased sales that have eluded me thus far. As in many things, time will tell. But I will keep you updated as the (hoped for) success, or lack of success that I experience, and will hopefully be able to pass along any hints, tips, and tricks that I learn on the way.

Until next time, stay good, stay safe, and I hope you all will prosper in all of your endeavors!

Who Knows...Maybe Someday!

2011-04-17T17:25:00.000-07:00

I have recently started selling on Addoway (feel free to stop by and check out my new store: Whiskey Jack on Addoway) and this is in addition to my Bonanza Booth. No sales yet, but I am hopeful. While hanging out on Face Book the other day, trying to promote my two store fronts, there was a discussion concerning what would be the ideal online sales site. After thinking about it a bit, I came up with the following:

Welcome to SaleMart! Your One Stop Online Sales Source!

On SaleMart, you can choose to sell in our Auction Barn, or open your very own store front in our mall!

The Auction Barn runs auctions continually, and auction last anywhere from 7 days long down to 1 hour long. The choice is yours. Each seller determines the length of their auction, reserve prices (if any), starting bids, and sellers (known as Auctioneers here in the barn) will have the ability to lower the starting bid at any time. Registered sellers will have a real time live chat available to them, so they can interact with bidders during the course of their auction. Bidders are not required to complete a full registration to participate in auctions. However, buyers must sign up for each auction they attend, and provide a user name, email address, and agree to the terms of the auction. Bidders will use their user name when bidding. Buyers who complete the full registration (which is free), will not be required to sign up for any auction they participate in. Their initial registration with SaleMart will take the place of the auction sign up and will constitute the buyers agreement with any auction terms.

If you choose to open a store front in our mall, you will notice that our mall is sectioned into store categories such as Antiques stores, Collectibles stores, Craft stores, Clothing stores, Jewelry stores, Book stores, Sporting Goods stores, Variety stores, Thrift stores, and more. Simply choose which category best fits your store and set up your storefront! The mall is divided up into categories to better help buyers locate just what they are looking for, and also help the seller increase sales by avoiding having buyers wander aimlessly around looking for what they want (and soon getting discouraged and leaving!)

Sellers with storefronts can run sales either together or independent of other stores, and will always have the ability to show which items have been marked down and by how much! This way, when buyers enter your store, they will immediately see where prices have been rolled back!

In addition, the first four (or five) item windows in each store front are intentionally left blank. These windows provide the seller to insert sales flyers, promotional ads, etc.. to help inspire sales in their stores!

As with the Auction Barn, each store will have a live, real time chat window so they can converse with their customers! In addition, each store owner (as well as each auction seller) will have the ability to send and receive messages and quick texts right from their profile page!

SaleMart also offers dozens of free listing templates to sellers. Templates are found in the “Sellers Tools” section. A link to this is located on the sellers profile page. Other sellers tools include free shipping calculators, several counters, free google analytics, free sales analysis tools, and much more!

As you enter our main SaleMart page, you will see three separate “Notices” boards. One is the “Daily Coupons” board where sellers are able to post sale coupons by the day or week for their store. The next is the “Current Sales” board which lists all ongoing sales. Sellers can post here to show that they are having a sale, what is on sale, and what kind of savings customers can expect. The last is the “Auction Board” which shows what auctioneers are having auctions.

SaleMart also has a dispute resolution center that is committed to resolving any issues which may arise between sellers and buyers. Rest assured that SaleMart does not favor one side over the other, and strives to be fair in all its decisions. Buyers are strongly encouraged to work with sellers if they experience any problems, and SaleMart encourages all sellers to be honest and truthful in all their dealings with their customers. If a seller can be shown to have been dishonest in their item descriptions or titles, then SaleMart will likely side with the buyer. However, if the buyer does not purchase shipping insurance for items they purchase, then SaleMart will not hold sellers accountable for items damaged during shipping. Sellers are encouraged to provide shipping insurance or at least the option for the buyer to purchase this. Both sellers and buyers are required to agree to and abide by SaleMart’s established policies and rules, and both buyers and sellers will be held accountable for any attempts at fraudulent activity. Although buyers are not required to register to purchase items in SaleMart stores, only registered buyers can use the dispute resolution center. Registration is free, however, and buyers are encouraged to register.

SaleMart offers several different integrated payment options for buyers and sellers, including PayPal, Google Checkout, Cash, Check, Money Order, and others. Of course, it is completely up to the seller which payment option he or she chooses to use. Salemart also has several different integrated shipping options as well, including USPS, UPS, FedEx, DHL, and more. Click on the shipping options tab for more information.

Although SaleMart encourages sellers to make use of the sellers forum and SaleMart bulletin board to advertise their individual stores, SaleMart also utilizes an aggressive marketing campaign. Our commercials can be seen on NBC, CBS, ABC, Fox, and other television stations. We also advertise in national newspapers, magazines and trade papers, both in print and online. The SaleMart car can now also be seen racing competitively on the NASCAR circuit! SaleMart is committed to letting the world know that SaleMart is by far the best online sales venue available today!

Well, it sounds pretty good to me, almost too good to be true. And of course, SaleMart isn’t real. It’s only what I would like to see in an online sales venue. And who knows….maybe someday!

All the News That’s Fit To Print

2011-04-16T15:57:00.000-07:00

Recently, I have begun selling (or attempting to sell) on Addoway. Ebay is okay, but it’s not all it’s cracked up to be. At least for sellers. At least for small time sellers like myself. I do still sell occasionally on ebay, and I still have my Bonanza booth open, but I thought I would give Addoway a shot in the hopes that just maybe Addoway has a different clientele than Bonanza does. So far, I think it’s about the same. But time will tell.

In other news, I scour the web almost daily for web articles that highlight antiques, collectibles and online selling. I have decided that each week I will post a listing of those articles I find that will (hopefully) be interesting to my readers. Here is the first installment, and you can just click on the headline of whichever article you would like to read (the headlines are links to the articles themselves). Enjoy, and I hope you find these articles as interesting as I have. Thanks for stopping by!

Antiques & Collectibles: Older casino gaming chips, tokens bring fair return on investment

Question: I am enclosing photos of five gambling chips found among my late husband's things. Are they collectible and, if so, what is their worth? (click on the headline to read the article)

Lara Spencer to launch antique-centered reality show

LOS ANGELES (Hollywood Reporter) - Lara Spencer is in search of new treasures - and a network hit.

Enter "It's Worth What," a summer reality series on NBC. The game show, which Spencer created and will executive produce, will tap into America's curiosity with cost and value. In what would seem an "Antiques Roadshow" meets "Price is Right,"… (click on the headline to read the article)

Kovels Antiques: Unusual articles of furniture often uncomfortable

Should a chair be a “conversation piece” or be comfortable? Twentieth-century designers’ chairs can be either, but they’re rarely both…. (click on the headline to read the article)

President Signs Repeal of Tax Rules That Would Have Hit Online Sellers

It's official. With a stroke of the pen on Thursday, President Obama codified the repeal of a set of controversial new tax reporting requirements for businesses included in his health-care overhaul bill.

At issue was a provision that would have required all businesses - large and small - to submit a 1099 form to any vendor from whom they had purchased goods or services totaling $600 or more in a tax year…. (click on the headline to read the article)

7 Tips To Help You Successfully Auction On Ebay

Tip #1 Another secret source of collectibles is eBay itself and other auction sites. Yes, the power of leveraging eBay is in fact a secret of many eBay sellers. Many items for sale on auction sites can be purchased and then resold on the same or another site. This is actually a common practice. The main difference in your auction is…. (click on the headline to read the article)

Antiques & Collectibles: Much variety, availability in salt and pepper shakers

Not only are salt and pepper shakers fun to collect, but they are everywhere — at yard and estate sales, second hand shops, consignment shops, antique shops and online. With the vast presence of these popular collectibles, it is possible to build a good-sized collection for a moderate price…. (click on the headline to read the article)

Tips make antique care easy

Taking care of our antiques is an ongoing task. I’ve been collecting helpful tips for many years. Most are simple things that have saved me time and money. Here are a few I hope will help you, too. Feel free to share your tips with me, and I’ll pass them on to other readers. … (click on the headline to read the article)

Innocent buy at swap meet ignites passion for collecting

Private museum covers 20,000 square feet; Toy vehicles sit along an authentic-looking street and upstairs are cowboy toys and Meccano sets…. (click on the headline to read the article)

SPOTLIGHT: Illinois woman has more 250,000 buttons

SHELBYVILLE, Ill.—Mankind has long been uptight about buttons.

Once some enterprising clothier had invented the buttonhole (they appeared in 13th-century Europe) the button was sure to follow, and then people started getting obsessed with them….. (click on the headline to read the article)

How to Appraise, Insure, and Sell Your Collectibles

Ten Valuable Rudolph Valentino Movie Collectibles

Here are ten valuable Rudolph Valentino movie collectibles that are sure to please and excite silent movie memorabilia buffs. “Women are not in love with me but with the picture of me on the screen. I am merely the canvas on which women paint their dreams.” - Rudolph Valentino …. (click on the headline to read the article)

What is the Future of Antiques?

A majority of people who appear on the popular PBS TV show The Antiques Road Show have no idea what their item is worth and a majority of the items brought to the show are worth about $75, said Stuart Slavid to the crowd assembled at yesterday's monthly Temple Beth Am Brotherhood breakfast…. (click on the headline to read the article)

Pickin' and grinnin'

With their plaid shirts, blue jeans and cowboy hats, Scott Cozens and Sheldon Smithens look like a couple of down-home boys having a good time as they drive around the country picking.

Picking, for the uninitiated, means hunting, identifying and negotiating for hidden gems like antiques and collectibles tucked away in barns, basements, sheds and attics…. (click on the headline to read the article)

Out With The Old and In With The New! Happy New Year!

2010-12-31T19:44:00.000-08:00

Well, another year has come and gone! 2010 has had its ups and downs, good times and not so good, but we’re mostly all still here. It is my sincerest wish that 2011 finds all of you in good health, and prosperous!

I’m looking forward to the coming year, and learning new ways to market the Trading Post, and increasing online sales. As you all know, this year I ventured onto Face Book and Twitter, and I did see a small increase in my Bonanza sales. It makes me wonder if just maybe there is something to this whole social networking thing. One thing is for sure though, I have met many good folks on Face Book, and I enjoy the time I can manage to get on and visit with everyone.

I have found that many of my new Face Book friends are Bonanza sellers, and many of them I have known for the past couple of years on Bonanza. I bring this up because I have found that it is infinitely easier to communicate with them on Face Book, than it was on Bonanza. I sort of like the whole chat thing on Face Book. Not to take anything away from the Bonz chat feature (which I think is great), but I never know when folks are going to be in their booth, and if I can chat with them there. I am fairly confident, however, they I will catch up with them on Face Book, and I enjoy that very much!

I recently received an invite to hook up with another Bonanza friend on LinkedIn. I haven’t responded yet mainly because I keep forgetting to, but also because I don’t yet fully understand how the whole thing works. But that is on my agenda to do!

I guess my New Year’s Resolutions nearly all include honing my marketing skills (which are for the most part non-existent), in the hopes of increasing sales. Something we all hope to do!

What’s It Worth?

2010-12-16T18:13:00.000-08:00

I would like to let each of my readers in on the answer to a question that every antique and collectibles seller wants to know. That question is, “What’s it worth?” No matter what item you are talking about, I can answer that question, and I can answer it honestly and truthfully. And the answer is (are you ready?)… That item is worth whatever someone is willing to pay for it. Period. Now, don’t look so disappointed, because there really is no magic number I can throw out there, there is no magic 8-ball that will give you that answer, no book, no psychic, nothing. The bottom line is any item you sell is only worth what someone else is willing to pay for it.

Now that is not to say that all items do not have a particular “value,” because they do. And it is important that sellers have an understanding of the value of the items in their inventory. When they don’t, when they undervalue or overvalue their items, the results can be disastrous. When a seller undervalues an item, he or she will inevitably lose money on that item, and some other seller will buy that item and make money on it. When a seller overvalues an item, the item will either not sell at all, or will take a long time to sell, and both of these situations will cause the seller to lose money as well. Remember, items not sold, are profits not made.

So the real question is, what is the value of my item (or items), and there are several methods that can be used to determine value. Perhaps first and foremost, it is important to understand that value can fluctuate dependent upon several factors. The sale venue, the sale location, the sale time, the item rarity as well as condition, all play an important role in determining value.

The Sale Venue

Where you are selling your item can be a determining factor in understanding the items value. Are you selling via an online auction, an online store, a physical “brick and mortar” store, or a physical auction? Each of these venues has its pros and cons, its benefits and drawbacks. When selling online (whether through an online auction or online store), the seller has the benefit of reaching a global customer base, something a “brick and mortar” store or local auction cannot compete with. However, at the same time, the online seller must understand that there are likely thousands of items identical or similar to theirs available online as well. This serves to bring down the value of that item. Therefore, an items value may be higher in a physical store or auction, than an identical or similar item online.

The Sale Location

By this I mean geographic location. Simply put, some items are more readily found in certain geographic locations than in others, and this is a very important factor in determining an items value, especially for a “brick and mortar” seller. For instance, there are some automotive collectibles, such as old oil cans, that are more readily found in the south, and are relatively inexpensive there. These same items, however, are fairly rare in the north, and can sell for a premium. So as you can see, when researching sold prices, it is important to take into consideration the geographic location where you will be selling the item, as well as the geographic location of the items previous sales.

The Sale Time

As in many things, timing is everything, and the sale of antiques and collectibles is no different. There are certain venues when sales are dictated quite a bit by the time of year. For instance, during the winter, especially in areas where the weather can be inclement, flea markets, swap meets, outdoor auctions, and other outdoor venues are for the most part, non-existent. Therefore, some items may not be as readily available as they might be during the spring and summer. When researching realized prices, the time of year, the season, may have an impact on an items value.

Rarity and Condition

Almost any antique or collectible item will have a higher value if the item is truly rare. The fewer of these items in existence, the higher the value. Now, please bear in mind that this is only a general rule. Some items are simply not very desirable, regardless of how old they are, or how rare they are, and never command a high value. Also, in many instances, condition is everything. Again, this is a general rule of thumb. For the most part, an item that is desirable, and old, and fairly rare, but is crumbling and disintegrating is virtually worthless. A good rule of thumb to remember is: If the item is old, and desirable, and in good to mint condition (including being in the original packaging – also in good condition), then the higher the items value.

How To Determine Rarity, Condition and Value

The answer to this is education. The seller must be educated as to what the item is, as well as the rarity and desirability of the item. The best venues for education are auctions (online and local), Shops – Malls – and Shows, price guides, and television. Attend and study auctions. I don’t care if it’s a local auction or eBay (and I recommend both). Watch to see what sells and what doesn’t. With eBay, you can check completed listings and see what has sold and what hasn’t, as well as realized prices. Watch to see what sells well and at a premium, and what sells for next to nothing. Don’t be afraid to take a notebook with you and take notes regarding these factors. Something else to remember when attending a local auction is, that many buyers at local auctions buy to resell, often on eBay. Get to know these people, and study what they buy, then cross reference what they buy with what they are selling online. Before long you will begin to see patterns emerge. Buying and selling patterns, and these are what you want to study very carefully to determine the value of your items (as well as what you may or may not want to specialize in!).

Visit antique and collectible shops, antique and collectible malls, and antique and collectible shows, and as before pay close attention to what is selling, what the realized prices are, and what is not selling. Write this information down in your notebook. It may be beneficial to use a small pocketsize notebook when visiting these venues as shop and mall owners may become nervous and unfriendly if you are toting around a large notebook and writing down their inventory and prices, so it does take a bit of stealth when visiting these venues. And don’t be afraid to ask questions about items you are not sure about. Many sellers are quite knowledgeable about the items they sell (especially if they specialize in certain items rather than “catch-all sellers” who sell a wide variety of items in their shops.

Study price guides, and study them well. However, do not (and I can’t emphasize this enough) assume that the prices in these price guides are any kind of indication of worth. They aren’t. in fact, by and large, the prices given in price guides are nothing more than an average of realized prices of the shown items in from various sale venues (primarily auctions and shops), reported at various times of the year and from various geographical locations. For this reason, the prices listed in these price guides are relative at best, and should not be construed as an items actual worth. Price guides do serve a valuable service though. They help the reader learn to identify an item, and they may help the reader to understand the rarity of an item as well. Perhaps the best prices guides that I have come across are the Gene Florence books (especially when learning to identify glassware). There are others, however, and many are very, very good. I personally have well over 50 price guides in my library, and I use them quite often to identify items, and determine manufacturers, and possible dates of manufacture.

Television can also be a valuable tool for educating the antiques and collectibles seller. Television programs such as “The Antiques Roadshow,” “American Pickers,” “Pawn Stars,” and others often provide not only a visual image of an item, but also a brief history of the item as well. “Antiques Roadshow” and “American Pickers” also provide information on the geographic location of where certain items may be found as well. All important information that should be written down in your notebook.

As I have hinted at in various areas of this article, it is often a good idea to try and specialize in only a few areas of antiques and collectibles, rather than try to learn everything about every type of antique or collectible. Even specializing in certain items (such as glassware, pottery, or ephemera) have such a wide variety of items within these categories, that you may have to specialize in a subcategory. That, however, is up to you.

I hope these few general guidelines to determining the value or worth of your item have been helpful and informative. Thanks for reading, and as always, don’t be shy about leaving your comments and suggestions. They’re always welcome, as are you!

Where Does Our Family Come From?

2010-12-09T19:09:00.000-08:00

A Little Bit of Shameless Self Promotion!

2010-11-28T16:54:00.000-08:00

Howdy Folks!
Well, in case you couldn't tell, I've been fiddling around with the way the blog looks (I hope you like the new look!), and I have added the "share" buttons at the bottom of each article. This way anyone reading the articles can tweet them, or buzz them, or email them, or post them to their Face Book wall, or whatever. (yes, this is a hint! So tweet, buzz, email and post away!).

Christmas is coming, and is just around the bend, so I hope everyone is getting ready as best they can. I know I am. Just in case anyone needs some great gift suggestions, I would suggest heading over to Bonanza.com. There are some great folks over there with some really great booths just loaded down with some of the best Christmas gifts you can hope to find anywhere!

While you're over there on Bonanza, be sure to stop by and say howdy to my good friend, and brand new grandma, Peg, at the Finding Friends Friday booth! And if ya don't mind some shopping suggestions, just check out these great booths:
The Latch String (I love the "Out Montana Way" book!)
@ The Boutique (Wonderful oils, soaps, lotions and more!)
Steamheat (Some great Steampunk items!)
The Old Grainery's Booth (Great vintage furniture and more!)
The Unique Boutique (Great vintage jewelry and more!)
The Auction House (Beautiful Christmas cards - with free shipping, and so much more!)
Dakota Gold and More (Beautiful gold jewelry!)
Bargain Hunter's Web Mall (All sorts of great items at great prices!)
Beetique (Vintage jewelry and accessories!)
Roger's Stuff (One of the best selections of great items on Bonanza!)
Indizona's Variety (Great Selection and Great Prices!)
Shopatusm (Home and garden items, candle holders and more! Beautiful items!)
The CDVD Mart (Great CDs, Old Time Radio, DVDs, Great Items!)
The Secret Garden (Gorgeous jewelry and more!)

And there are just so many more great booths over at Bonanza, and each one featuring wonderful items! Of course, while you're over there at Bonanza, be sure to stop by the Trading Post, and say howdy to Ol' Whiskey Jack! I have all manner of items in my booth from jewelry to western items, to books and much, much more!

So I hope to see y'all around on Bonanza, and also over on Face Book, where I try to be on at least every other evening or so. I sure would like to visit with ya, so stop on by!

The Fine Art of Haggling

2010-11-07T16:48:00.000-08:00

There is an old saying that goes, “Everything is negotiable.” Well, sorry if I burst some bubbles, but this simply isn’t true. That being said, however, there are times when price negotiation is not only acceptable, but often expected and sometimes even encouraged. And that is the time to haggle.

Just what is “Haggling”? Well, in a nutshell, it is nothing more than a negotiation between a seller and a buyer regarding the price of an item the buyer is interested in purchasing. However, as noted above, not everything is negotiable. And, not every situation is amenable to negotiation, nor is every seller (or buyer for that matter). It is important to have a good understanding of just when, where and how to haggle, and such is the focus of this article.

The “where” is fairly easy, as is the “when”, although unfortunately, many people don’t understand this and feel that every situation and every item is negotiable. I would not necessarily recommend haggling with the clerk at Wal-Mart or K-Mart over the price of eggs, a head of lettuce or a gallon of milk. It simply isn’t appropriate, generally speaking. It may be okay to negotiate a price on hotel or motel rooms, bus ticket, plane tickets, or train tickets if the situation calls for it. For example, if you require something such as these during the “off season” or off days of the week, then it is perfectly okay to ask for a reasonable discount, but not to try a hard negotiation. Many places such as these will agree to a discount if you simply ask in a respectful manner. They may tell you no, and if so then respect their answer and don’t go into bargain hunter mode. Remember, you draw more flies with honey than with vinegar.

However, the purpose of this blog is to talk about antiques and collectibles, so we will focus on haggling as it pertains to these areas. It is perfectly alright, and often expected to haggle, or negotiate, for a better price when you are at a yard sale, flea market, estate sale, swap meet, rummage sale, antique store, and even some thrift stores. You can even negotiate when purchasing antiques and collectibles online when they are listed with a set or buy-it-now price. But as always, remember the basic rules of engagement here. Don’t be cheap, don’t be petty, don’t be mean, don’t insult, and don’t lie. You should be pleasant, cheerful, courteous, respectful, and above all, honest (as I said, you get more flies with honey than with vinegar).

Many sellers in these venues will be firm on their prices. If so, respect their decision not to negotiate. Remember, they do own the item, and they are perfectly within their right not to negotiate. However, many sellers in these venues are amenable to negotiation, and all you have to do is ask. Often the best thing to ask is, “are you firm on this price?” or, “Is this your best price?” Quite often the seller with come back with a lower price, and if so, then the game is on. More about how to haggle later”

Quite often, buyers feel uncomfortable trying to negotiate a better price on an item. I suppose the primary reason for this is the society and culture we live in. In many cultures, haggling is part and parcel of everyday life. Not so here in America. People often feel that hagglers are just too cheap to pay full price, and some even feel that haggling is a sign of poverty, that the haggler cannot pay full price. In a society such as ours where we are encouraged either by our parents or through the media (or both) that we must “keep up with the Joneses”, people are embarrassed by any semblance, real or imagined, of poverty in any form. Appearances are everything we are taught, and it is this mindset that often keeps people from negotiating. Most sellers are aware of this, and so they will not advertise that they are willing to haggle. In essence, they are counting on that societal peer pressure that many are affected by to maintain and/or increase their profit margin.

However, if you approach haggling (or negotiation, if you prefer that term) in the proper mind set, and view it as a social interaction rather a strictly business interaction, you will find that it can not only be profitable, but enjoyable as well.

How to haggle, or, The Rules Of Engagement. As I mentioned, the seller is not, I repeat, NOT, going to immediately offer a lower price (unless the item is already on sale). It will up to you, the buyer, to break the ice. In a typical haggle session, the conversation might go something like this:

Buyer: “How are you today? Great day for a yard sale!” (or estate, etc)

Seller: “Yeah, so far so good. I’m hoping it doesn’t get to hot (or windy, or rain, etc).”

Buyer: “I’m looking at this widget and I’m wondering if this is your best price?”

Seller: “I might come down some. What did you have in mind?”

Buyer: “I was thinking of somewhere in the neighborhood of $12 or $13. What do you think?”

Seller: “I was asking $20, but I might be able to come to say, $18.”

Buyer: “How about we meet around the middle and say $16?”

Seller: “I think I can do that. Okay!”

The buyer has just saved $4 on a $20 item. Pretty easy actually, once you get past the ice breaking stage. Now, every situation is different, every venue is different, and every seller is different, so quite often you will have to play it by ear. However, the basic scenario is still the same. The seller may also stick to his guns, and refuse to budge on the price of the widget. If so, then the ball is in your court. You must decide if you want the widget at the seller’s price, or walk away from it. The important thing to remember is, once the seller tells you “no”, then you should respect his or her wishes and not continue to haggle.

As easy as it is, there are some rules that you should learn and remember before you start haggling.

#1. Know the value. First and foremost, know beforehand what the absolute maximum your are willing to pay for an item is. The seller already knows what the minimum he will take is, and it is in his or her benefit to get as much as he or she can. So know ahead of time what your bottom dollar amount will be as well, and don’t go beyond it. Not even by a penny. If you ignore this basic rule, you will be out of money in no time at all.

#2. Do your research. This is in direct relation to point #1 above. And even more important If you are buying to resell. Your profit margin is directly affected by the amount you pay for something. It doesn’t matter if the seller knows what an item is worth or not, and don’t try to “educate” the seller about the value of his item. All that will do is serve to alienate you from the seller. There are several factors related to the value of an item, and one of the primary factors is the sentimental value of the item to the seller. That ring you are looking at that may only be worth $20 retail, may have belonged to the sellers grandmother who recently passed away, and in the seller’s mind, the $200 price tag he has on it is more than reasonable. Try to think of it this way, even though the ring is up for sale, the seller may not really be ready to sell it, and subconsciously hoping it won’t sell. Again, be respectful and courteous. You know that ring probably won’t sell, and it would not hurt to leave your name and number with the seller, telling him to contact you if he changes his mind. He may and he may not. Either way, it’s okay!

#3. Do your research, part two – When doing your research, do not rely on price guides! I cannot stress this enough. They are great for learning how to identify a piece, and in fact they are invaluable for this. But the prices listed in these books are out of date by the time they are published. In reality, an item is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. There may be an average retail price, but it will vary according to the geographical location of the retail sale (some items sell or more in some areas than in others), as well as the retail venue (items on ebay will retail for less than in a high end auction for valuable pieces). The time of the year, the season, is also a factor affecting the retail value of the item. All of these variables, and others, must be taken into account when determining what an item is worth, as well as how much you are willing to pay for that item.

#4. Know when to walk away. If the price of an item is too high, and the seller is not willing to negotiate, then the best course of action is to walk away. Don’t be rude or insulting about it, and in fact, it may be a good idea to leave your name and telephone number with the seller in case he or she changes their mind, or possibly has similar items for sale that haven’t been put out yet. I never hurts to do a little self advertising.

#5. Know where you are in the food chain. I wasn’t really sure just where to put this, so here is as good a place as any. Actually this all goes back to knowing what an item is worth, and is another aspect of those principals. It is important to know and realize where you are in the “food chain” so to speak. And this is really for sellers and buyers alike. I cannot tell count the number of times I have read negative reviews on the television programs American Pickers and Pawn Stars. The primary complaint being that either the pickers or the pawn stars are taking advantage of their customers. People will point to a show such as Antiques Roadshow, and say something like, “I just saw that same thing on American Pickers and they only paid $100 for it, and here on Antiques Roadshow they are saying it’s worth $400! Those pickers are rip offs!” The fact of the matter is, they’re not. They just know their place in the antique and collectible food chain. The pickers pay $100 for an item. They are happy with that price and the seller is happy with that price. That’s all that matters. But go on up the food chain, the pickers will then sell the piece to a dealer for $200. They have made $100 profit. If they had paid $200 for the item initially, they would not have made any profit. The dealer will then sell to item to a customer for $400, making a $200 profit. By now it should be clear how this all works. As you work your way up the “food chain” the item increases in value. So, it is important to know where you are in the “food chain” when determining the value of an item.

#6. Bundling. Quite often, it is easier to negotiate a deal when you purchase more than one item. I know people who even purchase entire yard sales, just to get a few items that they know are valuable, and they will then sell those items they do not want at either a flea market or at their own yard sale, often making a profit while doing so. So don’t be afraid to pile up the items and then make an offer on the entire contents of your pile. You will be surprised at how quickly many people will be willing to negotiate a better price for you because of this.

#7. Pay Cash! As the old saying goes: “Money talks and…”, well, you get the idea. People are more willing to negotiate a deal when you are offering cash money as opposed to a check. I have been to sales where one person is interested in an item, but does not have enough cash, and so asks if the seller will take a check. Noticing that the seller is hesitant to accept the check, another buyer will step and offer to pay maybe 10% less, but also to pay in cash. Sometimes this doesn’t work, however, and the practice can quickly offend people, so be careful if you use this tactic. A variant of this tactic did, however, net me a good deal. I watched a seller hesitantly accept a check for a table from a customer. I later struck up a conversation with the seller, and mentioned that I too was interested in the table, and would have been willing to pay cash, although not quite as much. The seller then told me that he had another table similar and asked if I would be interested in looking at it for the price I had mentioned. I said yes, and was able to purchase a better table for far less. No one was offended and everyone got what they wanted.

#8. Appearances. It has been said that appearance is everything, and the same is true when negotiating. First, don’t wear your best clothes when yard or estate sailing. If you look like you have money to spend, the seller will be less inclined to haggle. Second, appear as if you are somewhat disinterested. If you appear too eager to purchase an item, the seller knows he’s got you. He knows you are going to buy the item and that you are going to buy at his price. Any attempts at haggling or negotiating are merely a formality, and will be pointless. If you find an item you want, pick it up and keep it with you, but do not keep looking at it, do not show off to your friends, do not act like it is the find of a lifetime even if it is. Act as if it is just another item. When ready to pay for your item or items, then you can either negotiate for the item individually, or as part of a bundle of items.

#9. Stay in control. You can expect to be pressured by the seller to purchase the item he or she thinks you may be interested in, as well as other items you may not be interested in. I went to one sale where the seller knew I was interested in depression glass. She began telling me the history of all the glassware she had for sale, about how it had all been her mother’s and it was all old. I saw nothing that really excited me (and all the glassware was way overpriced), so I went to look at some other items. The seller kept after me, and kept after me to purchase her depression glass. I was heading toward the door, and still she kept it up. I thanked her, and left. So, it can and does happen. Nothing says you have to buy anything, but if you do, staying in control will help you when you are ready to negotiate. There is nn unwritten rule which says that whoever makes the first offer looses. And quite often that is true, so stay in control, and don’t be in a hurry to throw out your final amount.

#10. Point out problems. When negotiating, it can often be helpful to point out any imperfections in the item you are interested in. Stains, discolorations, ships, cracks, repairs, anything that makes the item less than perfect. Don’t do this in a negative manner (which can be difficult to manage), but point these “problem” areas out as things you are concerned about. You might say something like, “I see that this piece has a crack running through it, is it still safe to use?” Or, “I see that there is a stain on this. Do you think it will come out?” Something along these lines. What this does, is, indicate to the seller that although the item is less than perfect, you may be persuaded to purchase it if the price is knocked down enough. This tactic works especially well if other customers over hear your concerns, and if the seller is aware that other customers now know about the items problems. If the seller thinks that you may now be the only one even remotely interested in that item, he or she may be ready to negotiate with you just to get rid of the item. This tactic worked for me when I was negotiating on a set of scrapbooks. I was also holding a vintage Frankoma ashtray from the early 1950’s. When it appeared that I was not going to purchase the scrapbooks, the seller offered to throw in the ashtray for free, if I would buy the scrapbooks. This is what I was hoping for, and I purchased the scrapbooks for $35 (they were initially asking $100) and the ashtray was free. I was happy, the seller was happy, and the individuals I later sold the scrapbooks and the ashtray to were also happy. And that is always the desired result of haggling.

Well, I think we’ve about covered the essentials of haggling here. When and where to haggle and when and where not to. Some of the essentials to actual negotiating (remember, only the unscrupulous are out to take advantage of others, and it is always best to steer clear of them); and that haggling or negotiating is a legitimate practice and is in no way derogatory to anyone’s character if done correctly.

Haggling is an art, and one that can be mastered only through experience. So get out there and start making some deals! And if you need a little practice, (remember what I said about a little self advertising…) then come on over to the Trading Post, because I am always ready to do a little haggling!

Take care and I’ll see ya around!

Blacklight Testing: Is It Reliable?

2010-11-02T17:57:00.000-07:00

A number of antique collectors and dealers utilize Long Wave Ultraviolet (LWUV) Black Lights to test antiques and collectibles for signs of repair and authenticity that may not be visible to the naked eye. Although black lights are a necessary tool, they should not always be considered the “be all and end all” in determining the authenticity of antique and vintage items. This is not to say, however, that long wave ultraviolet black lights are useless, as they are not. And they should be an essential part of any collector’s or dealer’s “road pack” (that small pack of tools that every dealer, collector and junker or picker takes with them on the road in search of treasures).

Of the many uses of the long wave UV black light, here are some of the most common that the collector, dealer, or junker may encounter.

1. Testing Porcelain, China and Pottery

Quite often, I have found that I have purchased a piece of china or pottery, only to find at a later date that the piece had been broken and repaired so expertly, that I neither felt or saw the repair. Later, however, when exposed to a black light, the repair was easily seen. Not only will most modern glues used in repairing items such as this fluoresce, but so will many modern paints that are used to cover such repairs and fill any minute cracks left over after repairing the piece. Black light testing will also reveal fine hairline cracks and “flea bites” (very small minute chips or flakes) in porcelain that are not readily visible to the naked eye.

2. Testing Glass

Green depression era glass contains manganese, and Vaseline glass contains uranium oxide, as part of the manufacture process. Both of these compounds will cause the glass to fluoresce a bright green when exposed to a LWUV black light. Reproduction depression glass, and glass from the late 1940’s and newer will not fluoresce. At least as a general rule. It should be noted, however, that Vaseline glass is still being made, and it still glows a bright green under LWUV black light. Vaseline glass can be easily identified by its bright yellowish green appearance (or opaque Vaseline colored look – hence the name, as found in custard glass). When it comes to Vaseline glass, a LWUV black light is more reliable in determining when an item is NOT true Vaseline glass.

As a general rule, Lalique art glass made prior to 1945 will fluoresce yellow, while similar glass manufactured post-war will not. The same is true for antique Burmese glass, and opalescent glass. Both will fluoresce while the newer reproductions will not

Early American Pattern Glass (EAPG) and American Brilliant Period Cut Glass (ABP) will also fluoresce, although not always as brightly. Most will fluoresce a pale yellow green when exposed to LWUV black light. There are those who say that these types of clear glass will glow a faint purple or blue. This is likely not a true fluorescence, however, and more likely a reflection of the lamp itself, indicating that the glass is likely a newer piece.

A word of warning when testing EAPG or ABP glass with a LWUV black light. Quite often, reproduction pieces have been created using what is known as “cullet” glass. Cullet glass is simply large pieces of broken or damaged original EAPG or ABP glass, that has been melted, mixed, and re-molded into a new piece. This new reproduction will glow under LWUV black light, and it will be virtually identical to an original piece. All that is necessary for a reproduction piece to glow, is a small amount of original Vaseline glass mixed into the cullet mixture.

Because of this, it is imperative that black light testing not be the sole determining factor in dating colorless glass in an EAPG or ABP pattern. Other factors must be taken into account such as weight, size, cut, and of course, provenance.

A further word of warning regarding LWUV black light testing of clear EAPG and ABP glass. Some of pieces of EAPG and ABP glass will not fluoresce, and some will fluoresce an electric blue, and some will fluoresce pink (indicative of a high percentage of lead, such as in lead crystal). So again, it is imperative to do your research, and know your glass when purchasing EAPG and ABP.

3. Testing Works of Art

I must admit that I am not an art collector, nor am I am art expert. However, it is commonly known that most modern paint will fluoresce under LWUV black light, thereby making it relatively easy to spot touch ups and repairs in pieces of art. If you are serious about becoming an art collector, I would strongly recommend taking some classes and purchasing some good books regarding the collecting of fine art, before purchasing expensive art work.

4. Testing Ephemera and Paper Items

Paper products made before the late 1930’s will rarely fluoresce when exposed to LWUV, however, when it does, it may appear faintly whitish, yellowish, or even grayish. Conversely, chemicals used in the production of modern paper will glow brightly under a black light. Quite often old documents will contain what is known as “foxing” which is the presence of mildew. LWUV will cause the foxing to appear yellowish, and will show water stains that may not be easily seen otherwise. Old vellum (which is parchment made from lambskin, goatskin, or calfskin) will appear yellowish white or ivory when exposed to LWUV, where conversely, modern vellum will glow bluish white.

5. Testing Textiles and Fabrics

Most (although not all) old textiles will not fluoresce when exposed to LWUV black light. Conversely, many (although again not all) modern fibers such as rayon and polyester will fluoresce when exposed to LWUV black light. This includes modern sewing thread. This can help in both dating and locating repairs in vintage clothing, quilts, stuffed animals and toys (such as teddy bears and rag dolls), as well as other items made of cloth. The general rule of thumb being if it glows, it isn’t old (the opposite of antique and vintage glass).

However, this being said, as with other items being tested with LWUV black light, there will be situations where old cloth may fluoresce. Modern laundry detergents contain additives designed to brighten fabrics. If a vintage fabric (clothing, quilt, etc.) is washed using one of these products, there is a very good chance that it will glow brightly when exposed to a black light. In addition, there are some modern fabrics which do not fluoresce when exposed to a black light.

With this in mind, it should be remembered that when testing textiles and fabrics with a LWUV black light, it should only be considered a presumptive test, as you may get “false positive” or “false negative” result. More important than a black light test, one should also consider manufacturing techniques, design, materials, and provenance when identifying textiles or fabrics.

6. Testing Cast Iron Items

Antique and vintage cast iron items, such as banks, book ends, door stops and more, were often painted, or contained painted decoration. Original items with original paint are often highly collectible and may be quite valuable. As mentioned earlier with regard to testing art work, most modern paints will fluoresce when exposed to LWUV black light. Testing allegedly old cast iron items that have been painted may reveal modern paint (which could indicate either a new or refinished piece), or, testing may reveal old paint that has been “touched up” with modern paint either to enhance the piece, or to cover a repair.

As with the testing of other items with a black light, it is always best not to rely completely on a black light test. Always remember to do your research, and completely examine the piece for other signs of authentic age.

7. Testing Stones and Gemstones

Many minerals, including opal, flurite, calcite, ruby, emerald, dolomite, quartz, and others will glow when exposed to LWUV black light. In stones, this is known as photoluminescence. Black light testing of stones and gemstones can in some cases, reveal whether or not the stone or gemstone is authentic or some other material designed to appear as a stone or gemstone.

8. Testing Marble, Jade, Ivory, Bone

Many antiques, such as clocks, knives, carved pieces and more, are made of marble, jade, ivory and bone. In determining the age of these items, as well as discovering if portions of these pieces have been replaced, a black light is a good place to start. Fresh cut marble, limestone and alabaster do not fluoresce significantly, and may appear purple in color. Old marble will often appear mottled white. Freshly carved jade will have an intense color, whereas similar to old marble, old jade will appear mottled. Freshly carved ivory and bone will appear purple, however, an antique piece of ivory or bone will appear yellow.

Items that have been repaired or restored will be seen as such when exposed to a black light. Glues used in repairs, as well as wax and plaster used as filler will be shown to fluoresce differently than then the original sections of the repaired or restored piece. If the face of an antique clock appears bright white when exposed to a black light, there is a very good chance that the clock face is not original to the case.

As can be seen in this article, although a LWUV black light can be a useful tool for testing antiques and collectibles, it cannot and should not be the only source of authentication. Nothing can replace proper research, and it is very important to have a firm understanding of the item you are considering purchasing.

It should also be noted that throughout this article, I have used constantly used the term LWUV black light. The reason for this is the personal safety of the reader. When testing items with a black light it is important to ALWAYS and ONLY use a Long Wave Ultraviolet Black Light. There are three types of black lights available. These are UV-A, commonly known as a Long Wave UV black light; a UV-B, also known as a medium wave UV black light; and a UV-C, also known as a short wave (or far ultraviolet or germicidal) UV black light. Long term exposure to both UV-B and UV-C black lights can lead to serious and irreversible skin and vision problems such as cataracts, glaucoma, and macular degeneration. Therefore, ALWAYS and ONLY use a Long Wave Ultraviolet Black Light when testing antiques and collectibles.

For further information on testing antiques and collectibles with a black light, I highly recommend purchasing The Black Light Book for Antiques and Collectibles. It is a highly informative book, containing over 100 photos and illustrations. Should you need a LWUV Black Light for yourself, there are several good online sources, including:

http://www.theblacklightbook.com

http://www.blacklightshop.com

http://www.scorpionmaster.com

http://www.scorpionsafe.com

http://www.spectroline.com

http://www.uvp.com